Radon Issues | Radon Myths and Facts | Reducing Radon Levels

Reducing radon gas levels in the home

There are five four basic methods to reduce radon gas in the home:

1. Sealing major entry routes for radon.
2. Reducing the forces that draw radon into the home
3. Pressurizing the building interior
4. Depressurizing the soil around the foundation
5. Activated charcoal air filters

1. Sealing Entry Routes

Openings and joints in a foundation that may allow radon to enter can be patched or caulked. For sealing cracks in poured concrete walls, we recommend polyurethane foam injection. Polyurethane remains flexible for years, as the house settles and concrete continuously moves. Caulking the surface only is inadequate - the gap fills up with radon gas which then easily by-passes the caulk through concrete. Surface caulking will soon detach as moisture degrades the concrete surface and it cannot withstand hydrostatic pressure.
Open sumps can be fitted with an airtight cover Floor drains can have special traps installed that allow water to drain, but prevent radon from entering the basement. Exposed soil in crawlspaces can be covered by a barrier with sealed edges and joints.
One problem that still remains is the porosity of the concrete itself. Products like Radonseal, Radonloc and Vseal address this by penetrating the microscopic pores in concrete and then solidifying to create a seal.

The pores constitute 12 to 18% of the concrete by volume. Their diameter is much smaller than a human hair but much larger than radon atoms or water molecules. They let in radon gas, water vapor, liquid water, and other gases.

2. Reducing the forces that draw radon into the home
Research has indicated that reducing the negative indoor pressure that draws radon into a home can be an effective measure for some homes. To reduce negative pressure in your home, open a nearby window to provide outdoor air when using a fireplace or wood stove. When not in use, make sure the chimney damper is shut. Where possible, also open a nearby window when you operate an exhaust fan vented to the outdoors such as the kitchen fan, bathroom fan, clothes dryer or central vacuum system.

3. Pressurize the House/Building
According to the California Energy Commission "The preferred method of ventilation is to push air into the house.. the supply fan approach. This approach is preferred because it directly controls the source of ventilation air, and because it will not depressurize the house which could cause backdrafting of fireplaces and/or combustion appliances.”
DOAS (Dedicated Outdoor Air Systems) are intimidating, often requiring considerable expertise in installation and setup, and periodic maintenance. Because simple changes require an engineer or maintenance person, system complexity has traditionally prevented the use in residential buildings and locked local heating and air conditioning contractors out of this market.
To operate a DOAS year round you need to know outdoor absolute humidity, i.e.., how much water vapor is in the outdoor air. Other factors, temperature, humidity may be considered. The system then needs to know what the occupant accepts for his or her comfort, then how to process the outdoor air. There now are inexpensive and easily installed systems available.
In Conway, Arkansas, Smartvent, Inc., makes a supply fan ventilator called HI-IQ because it is an intelligent ventilation system.
Another ventilation approach would be an HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator) which exchanges some heat between incoming and outgoing air. There are drawbacks to the HRV, it can only operate in the winter, requires maintenance, and since incoming/outgoing air flows must be evenly balanced and it has no effect on carbon monoxide backdrafting. But it will reduce radon levels and may be more economical in the long run due to energy savings compared to a DOAS.


4. Depressurizing the soil around the foundation
Active soil depressurization has been found to be the most effective and reliable radon reduction technique in existing homes. This method involves installing a vent pipe through the basement floor slab or connecting it to the foundation drain tiles through the sump. A fan which runs continuously is connected to the vent pipe. This reverses the air pressure difference between the house and soil reducing concentrations of soil gas, including radon, next to the foundation.
With this method, the main drawbacks are installation cost and an ongoing energy penalty to run the fan and replace lost heat. Depending on the base under the slab, more than one sump pit may be required to vent the radon.

5. Activated Charcoal Air Filters
Some companies claim that their activated charcoal air filters remove Radon. How effective the filters are would need to be verified.
A comprehensive guide entitled “ Radon: A Guide for Canadian Home Owners” can be download from this site or CMHC or Health Canada.